Domaine Guiberteau Saumur les Moulins Rouge 2019

A rising (risen?) Saumur superstar!

“This is a departure for the real or supposed spirit of Saumur, with a quality of fruit that puts them alongside the greatest wines in France, be they from Burgundy, the Languedoc or Bordeaux.” Bettane & Desseauve’s Guide to the Greatest Wines of France

“There is no perfect domaine... but when Romain gets it right he can, in fact, hit the bull's-eye. The white wines are pure, limpid, minerally and bracing, softening with time, but always showing a delicate Chenin ripeness, not the questionable sour-fruit some domaines offer, and not the wood-tarted version available at some addresses. The reds are cool, fresh and classically Saumur in all they possess… Now is the time to buy Romain's wines, while they offer not just great drinking pleasure, but also relative value.” Chris Kissack, thewinedoctor.com

100% Cabernet Franc. As with the Moulins Blanc, this new label was created to provide a home to Guiberteu's organic-in-conversion vineyards. The vines are mostly located in Montreuil-Bellay, with an inclusion of a healthy portion of old-vine fruit from a recently acquired parcel on the Brézé hill. The vines vary in age from seven to 80 years.

The wine is raised in stainless steel only, with the idea to craft a more upfront and early-drinking wine than the village bottling (also at a more accessible pricing). And it's worked. Expect a racy, crunchy wine with loads of juicy red cherry, ground anise, ink and nettle aromas and flavours and a long, smoky finish. Despite its drinkability, it has more depth than you might expect a this price point, and it drinks like a wine that might actually age quite well. It's a terrific value and a terrific entree to the reds of the Domaine.